Le Loir dans la Théière

Le Loir dans la Théière

3 rue des Rosiers

75004 Paris

Le Loir dans la Théière is an address frequented by all the trendy Parisian girls. You know the ones, who wear vintage parkas over their flowery dresses or Breton-stripe t-shirts with sparkly skirts, and walk the cobblestones in heels as if they were barefoot on a beach. They plonk their skinny little asses in the mismatched wooden chairs and talk, with much hand gesturing, about the crazy art on the walls, and order half the dessert menu because it's that irresistible. This means that there is usually a queue, and even a long one on weekends.

I always go on weekdays, because I'm lucky to have the time and I'm not really into crowds and prefer to have the comfy leather armchair by the window. There is a larger selection on week-ends though, or at least the most popular choices run out a lot later.

The menu is simple and light, just the way I like it. I wouldn't be able to play favourites because everything I've had there was delicious, but I will mention last time’s choice of poached eggs over spinach with a creamy parmesan sauce which was even more than delicious. Like, super-delicious or something (my dad often complains about my lack of complimentary vocabulary, I can’t think why). The selection changes regularly, in fact the 'plat and pâtes du jour' really do change daily I believe, which is fantastic when you go as often as I do (and I have been known to go twice a week).

Anyway, enough with the savoury, the real star here is dessert. You have to get up and go to the counter to look at what's on offer, home-made beauties rolled out throughout the day from the kitchen, their descriptions hastily scribbled on a chalkboard. Of course, you have to try the house special, a 'tarte au citron meringuée' piled so high with creamy meringue that I have never seen anyone finish it on their own, save for me and my best friend, who have been working towards that goal for a while now. My favourite, though, is the classic Tarte Tatin which they do to perfection, though their pear version is scrumptious as well. Of course, the selection here changes often as well and most of the choices are seasonal, so I have had to say goodbye, maybe forever, to many a homey apple-caramel crumble or silky-smooth chocolate-coconut tart. And to help with all that sugar, there is a large selection of teas, coffees, and even hot chocolate which I am told is very good (not my thing), served in wonderful metal pots.

As a last note, I couldn't leave you without mentioning that the decor is a wonderful mix-and match of old wood and leather furniture, with crazy paintings, posters, and sometimes artist exhibitions on the walls, all in accordance with the Lewis Carroll name. The service is, shall we say, Parisian (read, disagreeable and fast in a ‘please let the next paying people in’ way), but I say that in the best way possible, as I would actually be disappointed to be treated any other way in this city. And it tends to be better at the less busy times. And being smack bang in the middle of Paris’ gay area means that this is one of the rare places in the city where being a pretty girl will not get you preferential treatment. Finally, the intensely cool Loir dans la Théière could not be situated anywhere but the intensely cool Marais, home to all those perfect French brands that other countries are catching onto, home also to the only COS in Paris and to some of the best vintage shops in town. The rue des Rosiers itself is a lovely street to walk down, and perfect for some authentic falafel if you still feel hungry after that lemon pie.

photo from blog.elle.fr/ras-la-toque